Thursday, January 15, 2015

Mexico - Vera Cruz - the first story.

    I began writing this post in October of 2014, but was interrupted by a tremendous amount of work, which continues. It is now the middle of January 2015 (Happy New Year to all). Post will continue as time allows.

    My first time in Mexico, sometime in 1963, was in the industrial city of Coatzacoalcos in the State of Veracruz. I have to admit that I was not impressed. My perspective was that of a North European and I clearly recall thinking, what a dumpy place this is. In the same breath I have to share that my first impression of the United States was in like manner.

     First to the first impression of the US. Arriving for the first time, sometime in late 1961, in the Port of Boston, passing by Logan Airport and then what I believe to be East Boston. Here is what I saw; houses built out of wood, some in sore need of painting, trash cans on the streets, trash on the streets, a general look of neglect and poverty. Surely that can't be true in this country where Hollywood is telling the world, through movies, that everyone is well off, and where Radio America is telling the world the exact same thing. This is during the days of the "cold war" and we knew of course that the Russians (Soviets) were lying because the rosy pictures painted by their propaganda radio broadcasts of the Soviet Union was what we believed the US to be like, and here, in front of my, as we sailed slowly by East Boston, was a stark contrast to what we had come to believe.

     Now back to Coatzacoalcos which means "where the snake hides".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coatzacoalcos
As with all ports in the world, except one, it is located in an industrial part of the city. But the city had the smell of raw sewage about it. The waters in the port were full of trash and had a very heavy sheen of oil floating on the surface. Going ashore all the buildings looked like they were in need of some serious repair, probably not having been maintained since the last Spaniard in the area died.

     From Coatzacoalcos we sailed to the City of Veracruz, meaning "True Cross", from which the State of Veracruz takes its name. What a contrast to Coatzacoalcos!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veracruz,_Veracruz
The port is located downtown; one walks out the gate and after just a block or two one is in the historical center of the city. The Palacio Municipal at one end of the square,
https://es.foursquare.com/v/palacio-municipal-de-veracruz/4d3d93cafb4c54813e49de14
the Cathedral on one side http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathedral_of_Veracruz
and hotels and restaurants on the other two sides (the link below is in Spanish). This area is called the Portales.
http://aguapasada.wordpress.com/2012/02/29/los-portales-de-veracruz-fundados-en-1595/

     Over the next 1 1/2 years I was in Vera Cruz about every 8 to 9 weeks, sailing on the same ship. Over time I feel "in love" with the place, its history and its "alma" (soul). In those days there were no McDonalds, Papa Johns, Office Depot, Wallmart or similar in Vera Cruz. South of the city was a nice area of beach with a number of restaurants and clubs. One of those clubs catered to the elite of the area and every Friday and Saturday night one of, or perhaps back then, the only radio station in the area transmitted live the dance music played by the big orchestra in this particular club.

     Further down the down coast is the community of of Boca del Rio (Mouth of the River). In the early 60's it was a fishing community. I remember seeing fishermen in dug outs fishing along the river. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boca_del_R%C3%ADo,_Veracruz

     When we were in port the evenings consisted of taking a taxi to the beach, going swimming in the warm waters. Having a "cuba libre" in one of the places along the beach and then going to Los Portales to listen to the musicians there, or take in one of the performances on the open air stage with groups like "Alma de Veracruz". A group that played old music particular to that region of Mexico.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danz%C3%B3n

     Now, when travelling from Vera Cruz to Boca del Rio, one can't tell where one ends and the other begins.

     Other attractions in Vera Cruz include the Paseo el Malecon, San Juan de Ullua, Veracruz Aquarium, the house of Agustin Lara (a famous composer)
http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g150804-d273690-i78453051-Malecon-Veracruz_Central_Mexico_and_Gulf_Coast.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Juan_de_Ul%C3%BAa
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g150804-d153488-Reviews-Aquarium_of_Veracruz-Veracruz_Central_Mexico_and_Gulf_Coast.html
The following link is in Spanish http://www.acuariodeveracruz.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agust%C3%ADn_Lara
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96NzAzGIWoI

     When we return we will have some photos of the places visited. Happy 2015 to all.

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